Spanish bull's tail stew (Rabo de toro)
1. Chop the vegetables (onions, carrots, parsley / celery, peppers) into larger cubes.
2. Chop the peeled tomatoes into cubes
3. Chop the garlic slices.
4. After previously seasoning the tails of the bull, carefully, as it stings: P;) with salt and pepper, give them flour, but shake the pieces so that only a thin layer of flour remains on the tails.
5. Heat oil in a higher pan and brown the pieces of the tail well on all sides and remove them, leaving them aside.
6. I put the resulting fat in a 6-8 l pot in which I hardened the onion, parsley / celery, carrots, garlic.
7. When softened a little, add the tomatoes, red wine, beef soup, sugar and balsamic vinegar.
8. Add meat, bay leaves, 3-4 cloves, thyme, oregano.
9. with PATIENCE;) cook covered over low heat for about 3-3: 30 h and stir from time to time, possibly adding beef broth until it decreases slightly and acquires the consistency of stew.
10. With 60 minutes to be ready, add the chocolate (it's a specific flavor of Spanish cuisine: P;)).
11. At the end, the meat must be well penetrated and easily detached from the bone.
I wish you luck and good appetite! ;)
Long live San Fermín! - the second part
After the mini-siesta that some managed to do (while others, including the undersigned, kept an eye on groups from all over the world, and listened to excerpts from conversations in all sorts of languages), let's go through Town.
Only San Fermín is synonymous with street party. It's a mixture of carnival and fun taken to the extreme, favored - of course - by the generous absorption of drinks with many degrees (wow, what a literature came out to me)). It seemed to me that the comma coexists very well with the religious part with the crazy and wild party. There are people (like us) who successfully combine the two.
The party consists, as everywhere, of alcohol, music and fun that everyone puts on. He has no other secret. Perhaps what is most surprising is how peaceful it is: despite the collective drunkenness, there are no quarrels or street fights. But there are accidents due to excess. all! The only golden rule is live and let the others live (literal equivalent of the famous Iberian saying: "live and let live"). Have as much fun as you can and let the others do it.
To be honest, I didn't think I would last that long. In fact, it was something new to me. Thirty hours of fiesta almost continuous. The truth is that we did not get drunk) We drank, like everyone else, from the bottles brought from home, but we lived the fiesta with the advantage given by age. It was a return to adolescence, though. controlled. All you have to do is let yourself be carried away by the wave, that is, by the Sanfermin atmosphere.
In the center of the city there were street performances of theater, dance, acrobatics, etc. We stopped here and there, rinsing one eye, marveling, dancing. Take another walk through the old center, with a bottle in hand, like teenagers (mine water)) Near the famous Estafeta street we went into a place to buy a sandwich and something to drink. 5 euros for a "chistorra snack", a kind of sausage. And a big glass of sangria - more ice than sangria - 8 euros. In Pamplona you talk so easily with representatives of so many nationalities… Immediately you are invited to a glass of wine and an ad-hoc dance. On the walls of the place, made of tiles, were written all sorts of "memories", in all possible languages… I liked it. We found a place where it didn't smell so "nice" and we ate chistorra. There passed by us the bullfighter whom the friends had dressed like this), and with whom we took our picture for posterity…
And that's how we walked, we walked, we walked, until it was time to go to the fireworks. Armed with flags (of the Canary Islands and of Romania, as the two Castilians said "step" for any eventuality - to read local nationalism here and there -), we sat leaning against a wall, a certain one, on a the street near the Bus Station. A Burgos resident next to the "armchair" took pictures of us, after he mentioned that he didn't like my flag. We knew there could be confusion: our flag resembled the Spanish Republican one, a little approved nowadays. I told him laughing that it's not what it seems and he struggled to take pictures of us. Unfortunately, I didn't shake the phone. They went out in the fog)
The fires end and we head towards Plaza de los Fueros. It was a concert, and I wanted to listen to Chambalo, a very well known and appreciated group here. The scene being in a park, I was able to sit quietly again, in a clean atmosphere, with clean air. From there, already late at night, we headed to headquarters. And there we had the fiesta (concert scene), but a slightly quieter group. After receiving a loaf of bread and a free sandwich from the nearby confectionery-bakery, we prepared for the dwarves.
About accommodation. I knew in advance that we would not have found accommodation unless we had tried to book months in advance. As the trip was planned only two weeks before, we didn't even try to find a room. Anyway, in the flower of the second youth,), we were determined to live fully the essence of this being. So we took a sleeping bag with us. And. guess where we managed to sleep for three hours? In the park of the Baluarte fortress, a splendid and cool park, where we had rested a little during the day. Full of French, by the way. We were very inspired to go there, places were full and it was clean, compared to the rest of the city. There I lived one of the funniest anecdotes of the getaway. I had taken a pillow from home, but my "room" colleagues didn't. Marta, who has the gift / grace to entertain anyone, quickly looked at some cards, the property of some neighbors absent at that time. Which neighbors appeared immediately and, with common sense, the French asked her just what her name was, probably to mention her in the "prayers" whispered later. Marta and one of the boys still had some bottles of sangria. To make sure no one stole them, they put them in sleeping bags, on their feet, as well as their shoes and other things. Imagine the panorama when we turned back and forth. I think I slept soundly, but before the movie was cut, we suddenly heard screams two steps away from us. We open our eyes and see five or six boys put on their wives (without glasses and in the dark, that's all I saw), with a metal fence on which they leaned, in an attempt to suggest the gossips in the country gossip (this was the interpretation personal)): “Look why people come to Pamplona, to sleep !! Suuuus, what, did you come to sleep ?? Here's how the red bag fits in the blue bag, what do you want from it? (to which Marta, the red bag, started laughing) Well, yes, the man's blue bag had to be !! Chicken, you're a hen, blue !! The girl puts nothing in you and you. And leave the girls on the sidelines, these are men !! "It simply came to our notice then. I don't know exactly. two or three minutes. if I thought I was laughing. They understood each other perfectly, when one was silent another began and so on. From us they went to the neighbors Jérémie and Max, whose snores did not let Marta sleep… I felt like a teenager, I can't say anything else.
Raúl had set the clock to ring at 4:30 because I wanted to go and take seats for the first "encierro" (bullfight), but it seems that the boys decided to prolong the sleep by an hour. At 5:30 am the final awakening, making the "bed" in a few seconds, taking it in charge and leaving for the center. The park was dotted with dozens of sleeping bags, and I even saw two tents. Theoretically, you can't camp, but the police close their eyes. You will see some pictures in the photos, and on the net you can search for more: sleeping positions in San Fermín. You die laughing, not another.
Big surprise. The city was full of eyes and at that time, the fiesta was not over. The smell of sour and urine was unbearable in places, but no one seemed to care. I followed the group of friends mechanically, without even wanting to know where we were going. We arrived at the place where the race starts, visited the day before, on Santo Domingo Street, and we climbed up, near the church. We caught the second row, in front of us were some Americans who were offended that many people were talking to them about “Transylvania !! Dracula !! ”, Meaning the eternal confusion with their Pennsylvania. I wanted to rest a little longer, because until May 8 it was two hours, but horizontally the smell was terrible. So we preferred to stand. Although Raúl and I caught other smells from the American in front of us) The beginning of the bullfight, as well as the song that the participants in the race sing to Saint Fermín ), I saw them on the cameras and pictures of those in front of me. Anyway, it was a clean "encierro", without serious incidents: some falls and superficial wounds, but not bull's horns.
We had a lot of fun before watching some "runners" (literal translation of the word "corredores", those who run in front, behind or next to the bulls) warm up. There are also professional "runners", who cover the entire Spanish geography and participate in "encierros", but the show is provided by a few unconscious heroes, who can barely stand and I think they can participate. Obviously, the law enforcement agencies prevent them, as far as possible, from doing so. There are also many foreigners who, attracted by the adrenaline, but without being aware of the danger of such a race, come to "running with the bulls", as they are announced "encierros" all over the world. Not infrequently, it has happened that "ghiris", as the locals call foreigners who come on holiday to Spain (but not emigrants), are the deadly victims of a race with a tradition that goes back to the Middle Ages.
About the famous "encierros". These are the ones that make San Fermín festivities internationally famous. The bullfights take place every day, between July 7 and 14, at 8 am. The gust of world, from small to large, occupies its positions hours before. Because otherwise you don't see anything. However, it is impossible for everyone to see encierros in the front line. Let's keep in mind that a city of about 200,000 inhabitants gets to "host" about two million in that week. Many people wonder how so many "fit" in the city on holidays. The photos are very relevant in this regard.
"Los encierros" have their origins, as I said in medieval times: Navarrese shepherds took their bulls from the Ribera de Navarra to the Plaza Mayor. They spent the night near the city and, at sunrise, they ran away with the animals, helped by the people, who, on horseback or on foot, used clubs and shouts to lock them in stables. In Pamplona, the first protective fences were built in 1776 and so, little by little, they were transformed into the current "encierros".
Before the race, the participants ask for the help of Saint Fermín through some songs that are sung on the coast on Santo Domingo Street (where the race starts), 5.3 and 1 minute (s) before the start of the race, ie at 7: 55h, at 7:57 h and at 7:59 h. Since 2009 the song has been performed in Spanish and Basque (Basque language).
(We ask Saint Fermín, because he is our patron, to accompany us in the race, giving us his blessing. Long live Saint Fermín!)
The route is made on the streets of the old part of Pamplona. It starts, as I said, on the coast of Santo Domingo Street, goes up to the Plaza del Ayuntamiento (of the City Hall), turns onto Mercaderes Street to enter Estafeta, and through the final part of Telefónica it reaches Plaza de Toros. The most famous and requested "corner" by photographers is the one between Mercaderes and Estafeta, and on Estafeta Street you can see the longest part of the race.
The herd of bulls completes the complete route in an average of four minutes, with approximately 25km per hour. It is made up of six bulls and eight oxen (I'm not sure that's the translation of the word "cabestro"), followed by a group of "shepherds" who beat them with clubs, and recently adopted clothing that differentiates them from the rest of the participants in the race. The breeding ground where the bulls come from is different every day, all being very well known in Spain.
I'll tell you about safety rules another time, because I'm already getting too long. I only mention that, since official records were made, in 1924, the death of 15 people in these races was counted. We only witnessed an encierro. But the following Saturday there was a "human stopper" at the entrance to the market, so that people and animals, over the pile, could not enter… I will attach the link, it is impressive. One young man seriously injured, asphyxiated, but is evolving positively in the hospital.
It's hard to understand why, with such danger, there are so many people running in these bullfights. It's about culture in the case of many locals, part of the fiesta, and headless adrenaline in the case of many foreigners who have no idea what an encierro is. Maybe this year I will arrive in Cuéllar, where the first encierros in Spain took place, and I will give you more details then.
After the first encierro 2013 (and the only one we were going to "see" live), we retreated to our headquarters, first to have the famous breakfast with chocolate donuts (typically after a night of fiesta), and then to us. sanitize a little. Another white T-shirt, which didn't blush like the first one. Clean and "cooked", we went to see the Great Parade and Procession. Taking a tour of the city streets, we were amazed. again tons of filth everywhere. Well, not everywhere, the streets where the encierro and the parade were going to pass were already very clean. I have never seen a greater mobilization of sanitation people in my life: hundreds of people and dozens of cars sweeping and washing with water and dero or whatever. Impressive.
The parade and the procession made my skin goosebumps, as usual. These are the things I love so much !! I saw her on the street coming down from the Cathedral, and immediately after that, I managed to visit the holy temple, after the failed attempt the day before.
The procession begins at 10 o'clock, on July 7, and leaves from the parish of San Lorenzo. It was not crowded at all, which we liked madly, probably already tired of so many people… So, the official corporation of the mayor's office, accompanied by army and police corps, dressed in gala clothes, musicians, dancers, "giants and the foremen ”(huge dolls, worn by people, obviously, and representing the king, the Queen and the entire royal court from the Middle Ages), the municipal band (at Pamplonesa), all heading to the cathedral to take the greatest religious. They all return on the same road and go to the chapel of San Fermín (Church of San Lorenzo) to take the image of the saint. From there they all cross the old city center and, about an hour later, return the statue of the chapel. Then the City Hall accompanies again the church representatives to the cathedral and the act ends. With such colors, the photos are at home. The horses reminded me of our Moldovan carols. Many of them had a kind of whip (which were not whips), with a sponge at the end, and, while dancing, they pulled the hump of the tourists from the side of the street. It didn't hurt at all, but calm down, it created general laughter. Beautiful.
The last "stage" of our getaway, before returning to Valladolid, was a stop at one of the many tapas bars in the old town. We couldn't leave Pamplona without tasting some of the famous tapas. It cost 2 euros each, no matter what it was, but they were quite small, and the waitress cut them in half. I tried everything, and with about 35 euros I ate four people full.
The Sanfermin fiesta ends, on July 14, with "Pobre de mí" ("Poor me"), which is played at 12 at night, on July 14 to 15. They sing “Poor me, poor me, that the festivities of San Fermín are over” (“Poor me, poor me, that the San Fermín festivities are over”)), but also “mai e piti” until the next …… They go with a lighted candle, and after that, many go to the Church of San Lorenzo and tie the red scarves to its grid, leaving the candle there. Everything for Saint Fermin.
I don't know if I would repeat it, because from an early age iti you know how it is… we like other things. But it is an experience that must be lived at least once in a lifetime. I'm glad I was able to do it this year.
Vegetarians can try it too track - Spanish vegetable stew served with an egg on top and a tasty sauce.
Tasteful vacation. 10 culinary delights that you can't resist if you arrive in Spain: pisto. Photo source: food52.com
Taberna La Auténtica: an authentic tavern!
Do you know anything? Today I am honored, so I thought I would invite you to dinner. Yes, sir, at the table. And not everywhere (not that it would be important, because in the end man sanctifies the place), but in Seville, in the heart of Andalusia. Now everyone pays for the transport, right? Come on, follow me!
You can't go to Seville without trying something tapas theirs. Okay, it's them N EXT known all over the country, that's what we all know. But we can't leave Seville without trying the ones here. It was a delight for me to enter two great restaurants, especially since I tried things I had never eaten before. Don't swear at me for this review, I don't even know why I write it like that, on an empty stomach, like I'm a masochist, wow!
After a full morning, when I had seen Torre del Oro and taken the old center on foot, I arrived in the… mushroom area, that gigantic monument called The Mushrooms. There Eva knew a good, original papic place, and nu not to sting badly at pozanar. The idea of our hosts was to eat tapas that day, which we did, at lunch and in the evening.
Taberna La Auténtica has three bars in Seville, one in Felipe II (next to the beautiful Plaza de España), another in Montequinto, and the third in Calle Imagen 2, where we were. The outside terrace, quite small, was a bit full. So I went in and went down a few steps. The place has two levels: downstairs there is more at the bar, and there are some high tables with bar stools. Upstairs are tables and it's a restaurant type, with a menu, etc. We went, as I said, to tapas.
First we wanted to solve the children. And we solved them quickly, because they were kind of starving us. My children (one of the endowments + the godmother of the first, the guest of honor of the trip)) were immediately convinced by the children's menu, with pizza, juice, soft drinks or water, dairy dessert and a surprise gift. That is the healthiest food). Ours are like fir trees. The other two princhindei (of the hosts), one ate meat with tomato sauce. (At the age of ten, she left us speechless with this food, ordered by her) and another tortilla. Healthy children, bre, not like our trees! (That's even though we read the thing with Due to our commitment to children, our children's menu complies with the Code of Self-Regulation of food advertising aimed at minors, obesity prevention and health (PAOS), which seeks to regulate the contents of advertising aimed at children). If I'm not mistaken, the children's menu costs 4.50 euros. Anyway, I can't give you exact price details, we were… invited! I mean, I invite you, in turn, on other people's money, you say! (rightly so) but no, I'll pay for your part).
Well, here it is. After we solve the problems, we sit down nicely at the bar and we start looking at the menu. Which, on the other hand, is not that fit (as an aspect I mean). But it's very, very varied and we don't even know what to start with. Well, forget if I had a choice
Flying potatoes (have you ever heard of them?)). They are boiled potatoes, sautéed a little and mixed with egg yolk and a little flour, in the shape of snowdrops (small and round meatballs) and fried. Yum! We continue with the nibbling: olives, hazelnuts and chicharrones, which I quickly realized is the equivalent of Castilian bark, ie various fatty pieces of pork fried until crispy. Cholesterol in the vein. R. is crazy about them !! So of course I ordered. We were put, like the french fries seen on the street, in a paper cone, on the weight (this thing we have never seen in the north, in all these years, which are not few). I also eat one, two, but not more, because it bends to me).
Cold Lids, or cold, as the name suggests
Shrimp salad lined potatoes (ahhh, my mouth is watering), meaning another potato recipe, which we almost ask for everywhere, because R., besides the big cheese, is also the big potato. These are boiled (prick them from time to time), then cut into slices and mix hot with finely chopped onion, olive oil, vinegar, salt and parsley (a kind of oriental salad of ours? Possible! ). You can set the tone if you want. Leave it to cool and serve, it's a wonder.
After that there were shrimp and mussels, but we asked shrimp, because I hadn't eaten them in my life. They are also a kind of shrimp, but tiny, tiny. They think they were just boiled and salted. Of course I was brave, because I'm allergic to shrimp, but a few I still tried not to die stupid and curious. If you like shrimp, don't hesitate to taste them. Just make sure there are so many kinds of shrimp, which in Spanish have n-spec names, and in English we find only prawn or shrimp… And in Romanian (I think) only shrimp.
Buuun, we continue with the snacks from the authentic tavern.
These are a kind of sausages (some dry or very dry), and are made, for the most part, of pork: Iberian muscle, a kind of meat in a pot, Iberian ham, mechá meat, prepared with a lot of lard, spicy sausages, known black pudding (a kind of mat of ours), etc. I can't say I'm killing them, but… put them in front of me when I'm hungry !! Ha!! You will see how quickly they disappear!
Smoked and salted
That is, smoked foods and foods preserved in salt. Smoked salmon and tuna preserved in salt. Have not tried.
Buaa, here they were of all kinds: blue cheese, semi-dried, La Mancha cheese (you will meet it under the name of "queso manchego", to know what and how it is very well known in Spain), smoked, old… Of course I have asked for a portion of cheese, for R. it is essential - indispensable, note wm -).
I liked this: Take care, take care of her. Means Take care of yourself, take care of her, and I didn't understand who the second verb referred to: health or ot escort? ) That is, should the exhortation be addressed only to men? Neaaah, it's about health, for sure. I should have asked, but look, I didn't.
This includes a so-called selection of healthy and organic products. Tomato carpaccio and melva (sorry, I didn't find the name in Romanian / English, it's a fish similar to tuna), pineapple carpaccio, chicken and pink sauce, caprese salad and arugula house salad, crispy ham and sweet mustard. We, like our fir trees above, did not shoot at "take care of your health").
A wonder! No goat cheese rolls with salmon, or with oregano and honey. I won't tell you anything more than to try !!
Lomo (pork tenderloin) a la carbonara, or tuna with Iberian ham.
Casseroles (It could translate "pan", meaning pan food)
These would have been taken up in the restaurant, and you could choose between spinach with chickpeas (I made this combination for a long time at home, as if it were a great philosophy), vegetable pots (in Spanish it is called "pisto"). ”, And the vegetables are finely chopped, finely chopped, and made with egg), cod with tomatoes, cooked Andalusian (I think I spoke to you before about this traditional food), meat with tomatoes, chicken tart, or snails…
Pintxos. That's kind of synonymous with tapas
Pâtés with mussels, mussels in the oven with Pedro Ximenez (have you heard - or tasted - of this sweet wine, good, bad, bad?). Of course I didn't go around (we never go around them, if we can) red peppers, tiny, stuffed with all sorts of goodies and au gratin oh, God, in my selfishness I just prayed that others wouldn't like me to start again. a lot! We really like peppers stuffed with patterned chicken, my mouth watering !! Ask them anywhere in Spain, and give them alms, so I can get them healthy! )
By name, this is for fine palate). Duck leaf mousse with blueberry jam, miam miam. The little one is badly expensive, I ate it when they took us from Renault to these fine meals, but now I'm also looking for an offer of a few grams at the supermarket). And I do the same when I have a special guest at dinner. This includes other expensive mollusks, or premium anchovies and other wonders. Of course we refrained from asking for such delicacies. Just in case.
They also made these in several ways: with ham and cheese, with shrimp, barbecue, pepperoni, spinach with chickpeas and goat cheese (the Spaniards have what they have with goat cheese, they like it a lot), or their special pizza with arugula, tomatoes, tuna and ham.
Panes de Pueblo
That would mean "country bread." Eva knew them all, I think, so we asked for some. Pringá bread, specifically Andalusian, is bread with pot meat and, of course, lard. Or with peppers and tuna, Roquefort (for those who like it) or barbecue.
Also based on carnations you can try country potatoes, with various sauces. And, of course, the potato tortilla, not missing.
That's why I didn't try. They were vegetables, chicken, pork, ham or cheese…
Desserts. I mean desserts.
From chocolate cake, cheese, to the typical cakes called "piononos". We didn't eat dessert here, I can't give my opinion, but if they are as good as tapas, then don't hesitate to ask for anything! )
Of drinking, we drank a glass of red wine (no more, because we still had to walk, and the wine softens directly)), cola (cracked children) and water.
We liked the place. Clean, airy, good service (I was somewhat spiritually deprived of the waiters' joke, but maybe I went with the preconceived idea that all Sevillians are put on their husbands all the time). Enough people, which proves that the place is frequented because it is worth it.
As an idea about prices, four children and four adults ate to their heart's content with about fifty euros. Extraordinarily good price! No dessert, yes, because, although in front of the tavern there is a super stall with shit, baclavale and other oriental wonders, we are looking for the chocolate donuts after which Inma remained.
So deja you already know: if you arrive once again at the ultra modern and futuristic Las Setas monument and you get hungry, enter Taberna La Auténtica again and eat tapas! You will come out of there with super good taste). Like today, that is. Good appetite!