Glazed Smoked Duck with Candied Kumquats
- 2 cinnamon sticks, broken in half
- 1 1/3 cups kumquats, stemmed, quartered, seeded
- 2 teaspoons Grand Marnier
- 2 6-ounce smoked duck breasts, each cut into 15 thin slices
Combine first 4 ingredients in saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to boil; add kumquats. Simmer until kumquats are tender and liquid is syrupy, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in Grand Marnier. Season with salt and pepper. DO AHEAD Can be made 1 week ahead. Cool, cover, and chill. Rewarm over low heat before continuing. Strain glaze into small bowl. Discard cinnamon and bay leaf; reserve candied kumquats and glaze separately.
Divide arugula among plates. Top each with 5 duck slices; brush with glaze. Place 1 kumquat quarter on each duck slice.
Menu development and licensing
Posted in development at 12:27 am by foodhacking
Hello, I have been working on menu development and other food projects- they are very exciting and I love talking about them with people, but I feel shy about posting them out on the internet until they “launch” into people’s mouths. Once that’s done, I will open-source the recipes and development notes here in this blog.
Menu development is fun and fantastic and I am going in some supercool stimulating directions that I think will really expand and challenge my aesthetic. Sometimes I look at recipes i’m working on and think: “that’s a ripoff of something from the Fat Duck/Jardiniere/WD-50/El Bulli/blah blah”- that’s the nature of cooking, right? You can’t copyright the important part of a recipe: the list of components. Every technique or dish you learn is reused in some other dish you make. Like knitting patterns, the cooking world should be ideally suited to concepts like “open source” and Creative Commons licensing, having a moral belief system about proprietary knowledge that is complementary to free flow of information. All chefs steal others’ recipes regularly, and they’re blatant about it and okay with it since the personal/team skill is what really makes this incarnation of a dish unique.
I don’t really think about licensing recipes- I just assume everyone can use them no matter what, since there’s no copyright notice. maybe it’s important to have a Creative Commons license to make a statement about how copyright can be used for good, but then the license usually has the requirement of Attribution. Attribution in cooking is polite- paying homage to the innovators of cuisine. Who you stole the recipe from. But at some level, if you are cooking the dish, it’s your dish and attributing it to other people can seem over-necessary or psychotic, especially with classical french stuff where the names of dishes and techniques often don’t even link to the chef, but the object of the chef’s affections (Melba Toast! Bet she loves being remembered for toast.) I’m not a big fan of Attribution for my own stuff, but I will always endeavor to name the sources and inspirations for dishes- that’s part of the enjoyment of someone’s cuisine, knowing the origination.
If you ever use recipes from this development, let me know! Even if you don’t let anyone else know. My cuisine is attempting to communicate with your cuisine- and if we are lucky enough to sample each others’ cooking, our dishes become an ongoing dialogue.
At Saison in San Francisco, pintail duck is roasted over cherry-wood embers and served with dried cherry, cherry leaf and cherry blossom. Sommelier and partner Mark Bright’s preferred pairing for the dish is Domaine de Montille’s 2006 Les Rugiens Premier Cru Pommard.
“My pairings for duck often include red Burgundy and domestic cool-climate Pinot Noirs,” says Bright, “Depending on the richness of earthiness of the dish, I also like to do older northern Rhônes, Côte Rôties that are softer in structure and high in acidity.”
A Dish A Day: 31 Things To Cook In March
Here’s a specially curated list of 31 things to cook in March! We’re teetering right on the edge of spring vegetable season — asparagus, fiddleheads, morel mushrooms and the like — but until then, enjoy 31 dished primed to cook right now. Harvest a bounty of leeks, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, artichokes, beets and potatoes both sweet and standard at your local farmers’ market, and hit the kitchen like a lion. There will be plenty of time for lamb later.
Recipe: Leek Terrine With Goat Cheese
Michel Roux Jr. is one of Britain’s most celebrated French chefs — he helms renowned London restaurant Le Gavroche and is the author of the new cookbook The French Kitchen. Not for the beginner, yet not so advanced you’d need two Michelin stars (like Roux has) to pull them off, these recipes honor the foundation of classic French cuisine while looking to the future. This fresh, vibrant vegetarian charcuterie is the stuff of food photographers’ dreams. Serve with soft goat cheese for a very memorable first course.
A great vegan recipe for dan dan noodles with shiitake mushrooms will delight the plant eater in your life.
Recipe: Dan Dan Noodles With Shiitake Mushrooms
One of the original street foods of the world, this amazing Szechuan dish was once served by vendors walking around with a stick across their shoulders. On one end hung a pot with some hot broth, and on the other end was a pot with the noodles. It eventually evolved into one of the spicier Szechuan offerings, dan dan noodles with shiitake mushrooms, and then upon its arrival to the States the spices were tamed to please more palates. We’ve kept our V Street version of this dish pretty spicy. If you can’t hang, then by all means cut back on the sauce. We use fresh ramen noodles here, but any noodle you choose (even spaghetti!) will work just fine if cooked properly.
Recipe: Stuffed Artichokes With Meat And Pine Nuts
In Galilee, artichoke season was roughly March through May. Of course, these days every vegetable is available almost all year long, but there is something poetic about eating certain foods for a short time each year. My father would buy a box of fresh artichokes for my mother, who would spend the afternoon peeling and cleaning the large, spiky vegetables in order to stuff them. I loved to help her. Using frozen artichokes is much faster — and a perfectly acceptable way to make this dish. The heart will have a slightly different texture, but it is still delicious! Serve with rice pilaf.
If you really won’t eat your vegetables, try frying it tempura style.
Recipe: Ginger Beer-Battered Broccoli Tempura
I tend to use long-stemmed broccoli. I think the stem is the best part and should never be wasted, particularly if you grow your own. What the crunchy battered broccoli really needs is a clean-tasting yogurt dip. This one is based on the sort you get with your poppadoms in an Indian restaurant and is so versatile — I make gallons and use it with loads of different things. Anything cooked quickly in a tempura batter is best done at the last minute, so it’s important to have everything ready, including serving dishes and dip, before you start cooking.
A tangy, smoky, vegetable-forward side. (Photo: Sara Remington.)
Recipe: Brussels Sprouts With Kumquats And Smoked Salt
This extraordinary juxtaposition of flavors and textures is an irresistible crowd-pleaser. Browned Brussels sprouts, just starting to fall apart, plus chewy candied kumquats and smoked salt, all set against a rich background of bacon: Need I say more?
Your sandwich needs this sweet and tangy side. (Photo: Tara Fisher.)
Recipe: Sweet And Sour Chinese Cabbage
Great vegetable sides are always useful recipes to have on hand. Whether you’re serving this sweet and sour Chinese cabbage as part of an all-vegetarian spread or topping your perfectly grilled hot dog, you’ll be prepared. It’s as tasty on a sandwich as it is on a bite of wasabi flank steak.
Recipe: Mustard Greens, Cheddar And Farm Egg Breakfast Pizza
When you really want to go for it at breakfast, make pizza! Imagine it — fresh, hot, bubbling with cheese and the quivering yellow yolk of a farm-fresh egg. It’s worth the effort, and it’s quite a cinch if you make a habit of prepping your pizza dough ahead and keeping it in the freezer or fridge. This pizza gives glory to a good fresh egg (a duck egg also does the trick!) from your local farmers’ market. I top my egg with smoked sea salt to give it the smoky flavor some brunch-goers might crave after forgoing bacon.
Recipe: Spicy Roasted Cauliflower Tacos
Make the chipotle sauce with sun “cheese” and skip the honey to make this vegan.
The carrots and parsnips really carry this dish, so choose wisely. (Photo: Jody Horton.)
Recipe: Baked Flounder With Parsnips And Carrots
This dish plays off of the natural sweetness of flounder, carrots and parsnips. It is truly a dish of its ingredients, so choose the carrots and parsnips well, because they carry the recipe. Serve this dish as its own course, with no sides, possibly preceded by something with different flavors, like a game terrine or something acidic and pickled. Drink a sweet white wine.
Stuffed and double baked. You can’t go wrong with this spud.
Recipe: Double-Baked Corned Beef Potatoes
Double-baked potatoes are always a crowd-pleaser, and this version is perfect for St. Paddy’s Day or any other day you feel like serving it up. A crunchy slaw with a tangy and light Greek-style yogurt dressing goes well with this dish.
How do you liven up your rice? Add ham, and lots of it. (Photo: Con Poulos.)
Recipe: Iberian Ham And Artichoke Rice
Every year, Food & Wine magazine releases a cookbook packed with the best recipes of the last 365 days. Hear that? Food & Wine. Best recipes of the year. Any page you turn to will sport a winner, but while the weather steadily cools off, consider a hearty Spanish rice packed with artichokes and garnished with crispy, salty jamòn Ibèrico.
Red flannel hash tater tots, where potatoes and corned beef meet — in tot form. (Photo: Katie Chudy.)
Recipe: Red Flannel Hash Tater Tots
Lost somewhere along the lines of recipes past, this classic New England dish deserves some love. Traditionally, leftovers from the night before are turned into red flannel hash cooked corned beef is mixed with shredded beets and aromatics to create a wonderful next-day meal. If ever a recipe were intended to turn into a tater tot, this is probably it. We didn’t stray too far into the modern, as beets, potatoes and corned beef are all present and accounted for and give these tots a lovely purple tinge. We think you’ll dig ’em, too. The recipe calls for deep frying, but you can also bake in a 450-degree oven until golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes.
These seasonal samosas are stuffed with a seasonal secret.
Recipe: Sweet Potato Samosas
Traditional samosas are not wrapped in phyllo, but this packaged pastry is so versatile and convenient, it’s the one pastry I don’t bother making by hand. While this recipe calls for rolling the samosas in triangles, you can use any phyllo rolling technique that suits you. Regardless of how you wrap them, these Indian-inspired, spice-laced bundles are a perfect way to enjoy some vegetables.
Spaghetti tossed with broccoli rabe, smoked mozzarella and eggs and baked. Couldn’t be easier. (Photo: Alan Richardson.)
Recipe: Baked Spaghetti Frittata With Broccoli Rabe And Smoked Mozzarella
In Naples, spaghetti and beaten eggs are mixed with broccoli rabe and smoked mozzarella, poured into a pan, and baked into a golden pasta frittata. Served hot or at room temperature, this is a great dish for a party or picnic. Smoked scamorza, a cow’s-milk cheese, is similar to mozzarella but firmer and drier.
Recipe: The Good Fork’s Brussels Sprouts Caesar Salad
This is one of Ben’s favorite recipes. He loves the combination of two textures of Brussels sprouts — the roasted chunks and the blanched leaves — and also the true Caesar dressing made with salty anchovies. Plus, it has soft eggs and bacon. I love to use bacon as a cheat to make things taste better, and here I really pushed the envelope by glazing it with maple syrup. In fact, this is actually a very indulgent dish masquerading as a healthy one, because it’s centered around those Brussels sprouts. That makes it a very good way to get those who don’t like green vegetables (like my children and my husband) to eat them.
A vegetarian pasta that’ll leave you full and content. (Photo: John Kernick.)
Recipe: Creamed Savoy Cabbage With Mushrooms And Buckwheat Pasta
Like the little ridges in penne rigate that are designed to soak up sauce, the crinkly leaves of savoy cabbage catch every creamy, earthy drop as well. Cabbage, often regarded as poor people’s food, feels luxurious in this mushroom-laden entrée. Here I like to use a combination of shiitake, oyster and cremini mushrooms, but almost any fresh mushroom will work fine.
This curry will keep you full and warm all fall and winter long.
Recipe: Kashmiri Potato Curry
The traditional Kashmiri dum aloo calls for deep-frying small potatoes, piercing them with spices, and then stewing them in a tomato-yogurt curry sauce. Due to the ease of the slow cooker, I decided not to deep-fry the potatoes but did prick them with the tip of a sharp knife to infuse the flavors of the sauce into the meat of the potatoes. The flavors penetrated extremely well, yielding a lighter version of the ever-so-delicious dum aloo. Tart white poppy seeds (khuskhus) help thicken the spice paste they can be found in Indian grocery stores.
Cut a hearty steak from a head of cauliflower and hit it with an umami-heavy sauce for a satisfying vegetarian main course.
Recipe: Cauliflower Steaks With Tea Umami Sauce
My impulse visit to Blue Hill in New York City left an indelible imprint. The crown jewel — surpassing even the dessert course — involved a cauliflower steak the size of a dinner plate, crisped on the edges and luscious under the weight of my fork. This recipe is my homage to that evening.
There’s no doubt that these veggie burgers bleed red.
Recipe: Bistro Beet Burgers
Well, everyone loves burgers, and this is a fine, upstanding burger-citizen made with some of my favorite ingredients: brown rice, lentils, and beets! They combine to form the perfect storm of vegan burgerness. It’s not that they taste exactly like hamburgers or anything, but they do taste exactly like awesome veggie burgers. Rice provides hearty texture, to give you a substantial bite. Lentils are my go-to ground meat, so they were a natural addition. And beets give the burgers an intense (and vaguely disturbing) meat-like appearance, but they also add a lot of flavor, earthy and slightly sweet. Just something that takes your VB to the next level. And don’t forget the fries!
Don’t leave leeks out of your diet.
Recipe: Sweet And Sour Leeks With Goat Curd
I have done it before, and I am doing it again here, that is, placing leek right in the center of a substantial standalone dish. This is not trivial for a vegetable that is normally given the side job of flavoring other things, like stocks and soups. I find the creaminess of leeks and their sweet onion-y flavor very satisfying. This dish, with its jewel-like currants, makes an elegant starter. Use long, relatively thin leeks if you can find them otherwise just halve their number.
Recipe: Potato Galettes With Sage
Sometimes, for a change, I add sweet potato to this recipe, but you could use carrots, parsnips — hey, why not try a whole heap of different vegetables? The cooking method remains the same. The galette should be crunchy on the outside and soft in the middle, with a lovely sage flavor throughout.
Pretty up your plate with these radishes and citrus. (Photo: Richard Martin.)
Recipe: Radish And Citrus Salad With Candied Shallots
We recently drove about two hours north of New York City to visit with Josephine Proul, executive chef at the farm-to-table restaurant Local 111 in small town Philmont, to see what’s on her early spring menu. This salad draws from Florida’s in-season citrus, plus radishes and other ingredients sourced from Northeast producers.
Substitute any of your favorite vegetables for Brussels sprouts.
Recipe: Charred Brussels Sprouts With Spicy Anchovy Butter
Use this recipe as a blueprint for infinite possibilities with many vegetables. The main technique here is to char the vegetable in a small amount of oil and introduce a more robust flavor. Use your favorite vegetables: cauliflower, okra, green beans and artichokes all work wonderfully. The anchovy butter is inspired by flavors of bagna cauda, the Piedmontese “hot bath” sauce. This recipe makes an appearance on the menu at Saffron on a yearly basis. It’s a crowd favorite, even for those who aren’t big fans of anchovies.
Don’t let any of your cabbage go to waste. (Photo: Luca Trovato.)
Recipe: Stuffed Whole Cabbage
My good friend and accomplished amateur cook Jean-Michel Valette speaks fondly of his childhood days in France, when he often visited his grandmother, who lived in Vouvray in the Loire Valley. The dish he loved best was h er stuffed whole cabbage. When I pressed him for details, all he could remember is that she used a lot of butter. Through trial and error and the help of Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume Two, we came up with something close that makes Jean-Michel very happy.
Hearty and simple, this cauliflower soup will soon be a staple.
Recipe: Creamy Cauliflower Soup
When cooked for a long time, cauliflower has a beautiful, velvety texture with a nutty and slightly spicy flavor. It goes excellently with blue cheese, but it needs some sharpness to stop the whole thing from getting too cloying, so we add lemon and a spoonful of chutney as a garnish.
Whether as a side or an appetizer, these leeks are sure to impress.
Recipe: Leeks With Spicy Pollen Breadcrumbs
Leeks absorb the sweetness of honey and the sweet tartness of cider to make a side dish that is good enough to take center stage. The leeks cook slowly in their own juices, the flavors enhanced by just a small amount of honey. Then the dish gets another layer of bee magic with a scattering of crisp spicy breadcrumbs enriched with pollen. You don’t need to make the breadcrumbs the leeks are good without them, but they look and taste great. With some soft goat cheese or feta scattered over the top, these leeks make a good vegetarian supper. Otherwise, I love them alongside lamb, pork or fish.
Creamy, tangy, cider-spiked chicken straight from France. There’s only one pairing for this classic comfort food, so don’t use the whole bottle on the poulet!
Recipe: Normandy Cider-Braised Chicken
Normandy is famous for its apple-growing, so there they cook chicken in local cider. In Alsace, the same dish is prepared using Riesling wine. I think this dish is delicious served with buttered noodles, but purists often like it with mashed potatoes.
These spicy, peanut-y noodles will change your mind about vegan cuisine for the better.
Recipe: Spicy Vegan Dragon Noodle Salad
“Summer evenings are incomplete without a noodle salad like this to slurp up. Peanut-y, sesame-y, spicy and loaded with crisp and cooling radishes and cucumbers,” says Isa Chandra Moskowitz.
Little pillows of sweet potato. (Photo: Kate Sears.)
Recipe: Sweet Potato Gnocchi
These deep orange sweet potato gnocchi are like little pillows from heaven. Tender and comforting, the gnocchi are swimming in a creamy almond-sage sauce, sending the classic sweet potato–sage combo into a whole new dimension.
Shiitake pizza with Taleggio
Recipe: Shiitake Mushroom Pizza With Roasted Garlic And Taleggio
The thing about pizza is it’s really a blank canvas for anything delicious. Which is why I frequently borrow combinations of ingredients from other dishes I’ve made and just drop them on a crust. This is a mix of flavors and a technique I discovered in a risotto recipe (thank you, Jamie Oliver). The technique for roasting mushrooms infuses them with an intense aromatic flavor while also caramelizing them perfectly — they don’t get soupy — and the rich and earthy texture is the ideal foil to a warm, luscious (and yes, slightly stinky) Taleggio.
Recipe: Cider-Glazed Apple-Walnut Cake
We both grew up near a famous local apple orchard and have fond memories of picking the apples, then rushing home to bake apple cakes and pies. Even if you don’t pick them off the tree, be sure to bake this cake on a fall day. It will fill the kitchen with a sweet and spicy aroma, and you will enjoy a wonderful old-fashioned apple cake.
Layers of comfort underneath a flaky layer of dough. (Photo: France Ruffenach.)
Recipe: Chicken Pot Pie With Pickled Beets
Chicken pot pies have a bad reputation: They call to mind the gluey, frozen things that you scooped up in front of the TV as a kid while watching Brady Bunch reruns. Well, here’s one that’s subtle, fresh, and — dare I say it? — elegant. With layers of chicken, tarragon, mushrooms, and leek topped by crisp puff pastry, it’s hard not to return for a second helping. You can have it on the table in under an hour, far less if you have leftover roasted chicken on hand. Use wild mushrooms if you have them. Morels will transform this pie into a dinner-party-worthy main course or starter.
Candied Orange Quarters
And he doesn’t care if they are Brach’s or some store brand of orange slices, whether they cost $3.00 a package, or 99¢ a package. He likes them all. While in Madrid, on our last part of our Spain trip, we happened upon several confection shops. There were all kinds of cookies and sweets. (See some of the below candy pictures). We had just finished a really nice lunch of gazpacho and a huge plate of paella and we were really wanting something sweet. Or, should I say, I was wanting something sweet so we started window shopping for something that would satisfy our sweet tooth and I’m sure we were drooling all over ourselves by the time we found these oranges.
These beautiful orange sections were staring at us from the window saying “come get us, you will love us”. So, we didn’t want to disappoint the people who worked so hard making all of these delicious treats. I have to say that these were the most delicious, juicy candied oranges I have ever put in my mouth. In Brugge we saw some candies orange slices dipped in chocolate but I have seen those before, but, I have never seen quartered candied oranges before that you could eat the whole thing, peeling and all. And, the only disappointment was when we swallowed the last bite we knew it was –“all gone” as my grandson, Milo would say.
Plate of goodies we purchased. I almost think these oranges were drizzled with honey because they were really juice and almost a little gooey. I love the way they put your treats on the little gold paper plate and this was “to go” and they wrapped the tray with paper and tied with string.
So, before our plane had even taken off for the US, I was already Googling how to make these delicious treats. I found a recipe on Food and Wine’s website and set out trying to make these for my husband. They were a delightful surprise.
Here is something I found while trying to search for the bakery where we had these oranges (and lucky me, all I had to do was refer to the photo I had taken to find the name of the bakery) “L a Campana– Only one location at the end of Calle Sierpes near the Plaza del Duque, this is likely the most famous pasteleria. If you do nothing more at least window shop, although their display windows will likely tempt you inside. Not only do they offer some incredible pastries but have some of the best trufas (truffles) you will find in Spain.”
The orange quarters cook in water for quite a while. That is to remove the bitterness from the peel. I like a little bitter taste to offset the sweetness of the orange.
Cooking in syrup. I never said these were going to be quick to make.
Cooking, and cooking, and cooking.
These get put out on cookie sheet to air dry for a day.
Finally, finished and worth every minute it took making these. I will be making these again over the holidays but will use smaller oranges (seedless). I may use these chopped up on a salad or to garnish some type of grilled fish. Yum!
So, I’m preparing the recipe exactly from Food and Wine. I may make adjustments the next time I try these and cook them a little longer. I added some orange extract and I don’t know why but I had it and thought it couldn’t hurt.
Supper Club: Aztec Fusion Sacromonte Stylee
Menu development notes from last week’s Aztec Fusion supper club- some original recipes, some ripoffs. “Old Composition” means a flavor composition that I’ve used before, “New Composition” means it’s a new composition.. for me. Same with Techniques, Ingredients.
The name Aztec Fusion comes from me and Ali’s favorite restaurant in Guadalajara: Sacromonte. An amazing menu of challenging dishes using Aztec ingredients like huitlacoche and cajeta- that restaurant alone is worth the trip to GDL. I wanted to jam with some of Sacramonte’s dishes (Rose Petal Quesadillas in Strawberry Sauce) and take advantage of as many fun rarities and staples as I could find a block away, on Mission Street. I was thinking about Mexico while making polenta earlier in the week, and decided to pair polenta against masa. As a result, the menu is pretty corn-heavy. I think our perversion of Latin America’s ubiquitous dessert Pastel de Tres Leches is as good as any of the amazing cakes that Mission Street has to offer.
- Soup: Corn Soup, Cinnamon Oil
- Salad: Mixed Greens, Guayaba, Blue Cheese, Chipotle
- Amuse: Huitlacoche Goat Cheese Polenta Cake
- Veg Main: Orange Blossom Quesadillas, Strawberry Gastrique, Grilled Nopal
- Meat Main: Agave Smoked Paprika Glazed Salmon (Portobello), Almond Cajeta Mole, Cinnamon Fondue, Cumin Candied Kumquats
- Cheese: Panela, Crystallized Picamango
- Dessert: Pastel de Tres Cafes
garlic + onion + corn + corn stock + polenta + milk + sriracha
cucumber seeds + mint + cinnamon oil
Smoked Paparika Agave Caramel Syrup
agave nectar + tequila + smoked paprika
Carmelize garlic, onion. Cook down corn. Make corn stock out of corn cobs. Add polenta made with milk. Thin out with water, boil, simmer. Blend, season, add sri racha. Plate Cucumber seeds, sprig of mint in bowl. Ladle soup on top. Garnish with cinnamon oil, agave tequila smoked paprika caramel syrup.
Old Composition: Smoked Paprika Agave Caramel Syrup
I have been playing with this composition since Dorkbot- I really like how the sweetness of the agave nectar balances the smoky and spicy flavor of the picante La Chinata smoked paprika. The smokiness of the paprika hooks up the tequila, and the tequila brings out the agave flavor of the agave nectar. This caramel first made its appearance as a crispy tuile at Dorkbot. In this dish it adds its smoky and spicy support to corn- a nice Mexican flavor pairing. The basic recipe is: boil some tequila and add some agave syrup until it gets thick. Bring this to the boil and disperse some smoked paprika once it’s reached the desired consistency. You can also cut it with sugar and water to downplay the agave flavor and add some caramel structure to it (for making a crispy tuile, for example).
Old Technique: Infused Cinnamon Oil
Since my parents’ holiday gift of a Vitamax Super 5000 blender entered my kitchen, we have been taking advantage of its 210mph blade speed to infuse many oils for the past few weeks. The Cinnamon gets cooked and infused, the oil practically boils- after 30 minutes, a very flavorful oil. Make sure to use a neutral oil (not olive) for the best flavor.
Old Technique: Corn Stock
A trick I learned at Jardiniere: after carving the kernels off the corn cobs, simmer the corn cobs for 30-45 minutes and you save that nice corn flavor. I used the corn stock in the polenta course, as well as to enhance the polenta I use for thickening in this corn soup.
Old Composition: Cucumber Seeds, Mint
A few of the soups at Sacromonte have a nice sprig of mint (and cheese usually) at the bottom of the bowl. Since seeing the use of cucumber and tomato seeds in the El Bulli books and in a cocktail at Aziza, I dont throw them away anymore after prepping cucumbers. I started using cucumber seeds and mint together a few weeks ago for the Chilled Cucumber Mint Yogurt Gazpacho. The Fat Duck also hides a surprisingly pleasant brunoise of cucumbers underneath the mustard ice cream for their cabbage gazpacho amuse.
New Composition: Corn, Polenta, Cinnamon
This is a great combination, not sure where it came from, just playing with polenta and being steeped in cinnamon for a while.
New Ingredient: Polenta
Coursely ground corn, without hull.
Guayaba Blue Cheese Salad
guayaba + blue cheese + chipotle + agave + lemon + mixed greens + pomegranate seeds
Chop guayaba, blue cheese. Make vinaigrette with blended chipotle, agave nectar, lemon. Toss greens with vinaigrette. Plate greens, then guayaba, cheese, pomegranate seeds.
Old Technique: Pomegranate Explosions
We have used this a lot lately, a cheap way to add color and surprise moments to a salad- also a great fundamental element of Persian food.
New Composition: Blue Cheese, Chipotle, Guayaba
This is a salad combination at Sacromonte. This particular blue cheese we used pairs well with pears, so we paired it wtih guyaba (yellow strawberry guava).
New Ingredient: Guayaba
Yellow Strawberry Guava, a tropical fruit.
New Ingredient: Chipotle in Adobo
Smoked jalapeno chilis in a vinegar sauce.
Huitlacoche Goat Cheese Polenta Cake
polenta + corn stock + milk + goat cheese + mint + basil + huitlacoche
cucumber + avocado + tomato + habanero + pumpkin seeds
Bring corn stock, milk, water to boil and prepare polenta. Stir 45 minutes, then pour onto sheet tray with parchment to cool, spreading evenly with offset spatula. Cut polenta sheet in half, nestle one half in buttered casserole dish. Mix goat cheese, mint, basil, s+p. Drain huitlacoche. Spread goat cheese evenly over bottom polenta, then huitlacoche. Top with second polenta sheet half and cook for 25 minutes or until brown on top. Cut with ring molds while hot, then garnish with dice of cucumber, avocado, tomato. Sprinkle very small dice of habanero and some pumpkin seeds over the plate.
Old Composition: Goat Cheese, Herbs, Polenta
Working from a recipe for Culinaria, earlier in the week I had made layered goat cheese and polenta cakes. This turned out very well, but needed salt and herbs.
New Composition: Goat Cheese, Huitlacoche, Cucumber, Avocado, Tomato, Pepitos, Habanero
These components are from a salad at Sacromonte- the salad there also contains ash, which is a truly bizarre combo with the Huitlacoche. We use the goat cheese and huitlacoche as the stuffing/layer inside the polenta, and garnish with a dice of the crisp vegetables to offset the creamy, hot, truffle-smelling center. Topping this composition with crispy pumpkin seeds and a brunoise of habanero adds texture and some blatant heat.
New Ingredient: Huitlacoche (Cuitlacoche, Mexican Truffle, Corn Smut)
This black gooey fungus that grows on maize corn is a delicacy in Mexico, a harvest blight in America.
Orange Blossom Quesadillas
orange blossom + queso fresco + crema mexicana + lemon + masa + nopal
strawberry + shallot + banyuls vinegar + star anise + butter
Mix orange blossom, queso fresco, crema mexicana, lemon, s+p for quesadilla filling. Prepare masa dough, rolling into 1 inch balls. Roll out with rolling pin or tortilla press- use two discs to make a dumpling for the quesadilla, stipling the edges with a fork or fingers. Remove spines from nopal, then toss in olive oil, s+p and grill untill light green with grill marks. Blend strawberries into puree. Saute chopped shallot with star anise, deglaze with vinegar. Add strawberry puree and reduce. Remove from heat and whisk in butter, s+p. Fry quesadillas. Plate grilled nopal, some gastrique, two fried quesadillas, then some more gastrique.
Old Technique: Strawberry Gastrique
The shallot and star anise reduction serve as a nice savory and spicy base for this fruit-heavy sauce. The acid bite is kept up with some lemon.
New Composition: Cheese, Strawberry, a Flower
Sacromonte’s transcendental rose petal quesadillas with strawberry sauce is a fried, cheesy, fruity, fragrant comfort dish- I can never eat more than one. We attempted to replicate this fried quesadilla pocket with masa, queso fresco, crema mexicana and some orange flower water. You could definitely taste the fragrance, which provided a nice counterpoint to our strawberry gastrique.
New Technique: Grilled Nopal as Platter
Another trick from Sacromonte.
New Technique: Fried Masa Quesadillas
This was straightforward enough, but we really should have used a tortilla press- would have been much easier. We found a standard recipe online and MASECA instant masa.
New Ingredient: Masa (Instant Masa, MASECA)
Corn cooked in slake lime, ground fine- an ancient method of preparing corn which eases digestion. Used for tamales.
New Ingredient: Nopal Cactus
Green cactus leaf, sometimes sold chopped up or with barbs removed.
New Ingredient: Crema Mexicana
Mexican creme fraiche, but less sour or salty. Very buttery!
New Ingredient: Queso Fresco
Fresh Mexican cheese, crumbly yet melts smoothly.
Smoked Paprika Agave Caramel Glazed Salmon
salmon or portobello + cumin + agave nectar + tequila + smoked paprika
Almond Cajeta Mole, Cinnamon Butter, Roast Red Pepper, Cumin Candied Kumquats
garlic + onion + star anise + almond + cacao + cajeta + cinnamon + butter + cumin + caramel + kumquats
Rub salmon or portobello with s+p, toasted ground cumin. For glazing syrup, simmer tequila, agave nectar and smoked paprika until incorporated and tasty (sweet, smoky, agave flavor). . For mole, blend raw almonds and cacao nibs with enough water to make them all float in the blender- resulting mix should be thick and syrupy. Saute garlic, onions, star anise in olive oil. Deglaze with vinegar, add almond cacao and cajeta. Simmer for 15 minutes, then blend. Slice kumquats into rounds and simmer with water, sugar, and toasted cumin to candy consistency- strain and keep warm, separate. Incorporate butter and cinnamon oil in a warm pan. Sear salmon or portobello, then add glaze to pan. Finish glazing and cooking in the oven. Add remaining agave glaze to mole sauce. Plate mole first, drizzle the cinnamon butter, then the salmon or portobello. Garnish with kumquats and roast red pepper petals.
Old Technique: Candied Kumquats
This has been a seafood garnish I’ve liked to use for a few months now, when I can find the kumquats. Spiking the caramel with toasted cumin was a great combination of citrus and savory/musty. This also paired well with the cumin-rubbed salmon.
New Technique: Cacao Mole
Since our new blender works with cacao so well, this is the first time we’ve been able to make a frehs nut mole base using cacao and almonds. This allows for a different range of infusion opportunities.
New Composition: Almond, Cacao, Cajeta, Cinnamon, Agave, Smoked Paprika
These flavors worked so well together- the candyish cajeta lending the cacao the sweetness it needs to offset its bitterness, the cinnamon oil giving a mexican hot chocolate twist to the whole dish. The smoked paprika lends a nice spicy/smoky counterpoint to the chocolate mess- the agavea nectar playing the same part it did in the soup.
New Ingredient: Cajeta
Goat milk caramel. We found this all the time on the side of the road, often bruleed in little wooden cigar-shaped boxes.
Panela Cheese with Crystallized Picamango
panela + mango + lime + salt + chili pepper + sugar
New Composition: Cheese and Picamango
Continuing our trend to use dried fruits with a cheese course, this spicy mango provided a sort of “spicy pre-dessert”, continuing the meal’s theme. The panela’s creaminess acted as a switch, turning on and off the mango’s spiciness.
New Ingredient: Panela
Fresh, mild peasant cheese.
New Ingredient: Crystallized Picamango
Mango cured in chili-lime salt, dried, coated in sugar.
Pastel de Tres Cafes
cake + cream + evaporated milk + condense milk + kahlua + espresso
espresso chocolate + whipped cream + bananas
Make a cake. Incorporate cream, milks, kahlua, espresso. Pour half of mixture over cake, then top with whipped cream. Pour remaining half over whipped cream. Garnish with banana slices, espresso chocolate buttons.
New Composition: Tres Cafes
This classic Latin American cake bleeds sweet milky goodness everywhere- switching this up with some coffee, and garnishing with chocolate and bananas was perhaps a bad idea considering how late it was by the time we got to dessert. Some opted to get this massive caffeine fix as a take-home package for the next morning. Very delicious, and I am not a fan of coffee.
New Ingredient: Espresso
Finely ground coffee, brewed under pressure with very little contact time.
Staple & Fancy Mercantile
$75/person Reservations 5pm – 11pm 206.789.1200
Chef Ethan Stowell and chef de cuisine Branden Karow will create a “fancy” family-style first course with options on the following courses for guests to enjoy.
First Course: Chicken Liver Crostini with golden raisins Cotechino with lentils Shigoku Oysters with lemon, horseradish, and olive oil Treviso Salad with anchovy dressing House Smoked Ricotta with grilled bread and honey Hamachi Crudo with avocado, chili, and lime Porchetta di Testa with pear mostarda
Pasta: Choose One Potato Gnocchi with Manila clams, mascarpone, and lemon Rigatoni Amatriciana
Main: Choose One Muscovy Duck Breast with glazed root vegetables and chestnut purée Grilled Albacore Tuna with tomatoes, capers, and olives
Dessert: Choose One Ricotta Cheesecake with cranberry compote Warm Panettone Bread Pudding with salted caramel gelato Pink Grapefruit Sorbetto with shortbread cookie
Buckwheat blinis with smoked salmon and crème fraîche (page 171)
From Bon Appétit Magazine, October 2006: Special Anniversary Issue: 50 Delicious Years Bon Appétit Magazine, October 2006 by Dorie Greenspan
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- Categories: Pancakes, waffles & crêpes Canapés / hors d'oeuvre Dinner parties/entertaining Russian French
- Ingredients: buckwheat flour active dry yeast milk crème fraîche smoked salmon salmon roe
Glazed Smoked Duck with Candied Kumquats - Recipes
Earlier I mentioned that corned beef is not a long time Irish tradition. Irish boiling bacon is a much older tradition. Unlike American bacon, Irish boiling bacon is from the shoulder area of pork and is cured, but not smoked. It can be boiled, then sliced thin, fried and served at breakfast, or it can be baked and served like a ham. Irish boiling bacon is similar to Canadian bacon, but it has a layer of fat on top.
Now I had never eaten Irish boiling bacon before. At least not to my knowledge. And I know I never cooked one. Planning ahead, I started looking online for info about Irish boiling bacon back in December. This is not an item typically found in stores here, so in January I ordered one and put it in the freezer. For our St. Patrick's day menu I adapted a recipe for Irish boiling bacon that was originally from Gourmet magazine back in December of 1992. While the recipe is not traditionally Irish, it sounded tasty and is pretty easy, too. It really only takes four ingredients.
The glazed bacon had a very good flavour that we really enjoyed. I'd encourage any of you who can find one to try this for St. Patrick's Day sometime. Or even if it's not St. Patrick's Day. We have quite a bit left over. I'm planning to slice some of it thin and quick fry it to serve with a breakfast that will also include fried potato farls and eggs.
Here are the four ingredients (boiling bacon, Seville orange marmalade, whole grain Dijon mustard, and lemon)
Bacon (already scored) in an ivory Fiesta square baker:
Glaze poured over the top and ready to go in the oven:
Sliced and presented for serving on a shamrock decalled Fiesta tab handled tray (notice how saltpetre in the curing mixture gives the bacon it's pinkish colour):
* 1 1/2 cups kumquat preserves with syrup, Seville orange marmalade, or something similar
* 1 1/2 Tbsp lemon juice or to taste
* 3 Tbsp Dijon mustard (I used a whole grain variety)
* 3-pound piece of Irish boiling bacon
* Fresh kumquats for garnish, optional
* Parsley sprigs for garnish, optional
In a food processor or blender purée the preserved kumquats and the syrup (or marmalade) with the lemon juice and the mustard. Set aside.
Place the bacon in a shallow baking pan. Score the fat, if desired, and pour the citrus glaze over it. Bake the bacon in the middle of the oven for about an hour or until internal temperature reaches 160°F. Baste several times with the glaze during baking. Remove from oven and tent with foil. Let it stand for 10 minutes before slicing.
Our Chef Director Chris Holland worked as Head Chef at the prestigious Alderley Edge hotel before joining us. He has a passion for using the best produce and never compromises on quality. Author of our best selling book Sous Vide The Art of Precision Cooking, Chris is a expert on the sous vide technique.During the later part of my school days at Wardle High School Rochdale I always wanted to be a chef . I knew from the very start that my path to work was never going to be academic it was always going to be something practical and hands on.
As a young boy growing up I was inspired to cook with my Grandma who was and still is an inspiration to me . I have memories of helping make the cakes that she always had made for visitors and family alike . She made the most amazing cakes and I loved nothing more than eating the sweet raw cake batter straight from the bowl . We used to fight over who got to lick the bowl/spoon after the cakes were made. My grandma’s philosophy for cooking even on a shoe string budget was always to use fresh and seasonal ingredients either home grown or bought from the market.
School was somewhat of a drag for me as I was itching to learn to become a chef.
I started at Hopwood Hall college as a chef and instantly fell in love with it .To me it was the only real time I excelled in something and this inspired me to really get my head down and put in the hard work. College was the first time I really excelled in something and gave me the opportunity to laugh at the teachers who said I would never make something of my life.
During the three years at college I also took on a part time position in a local hotel working the bar and restaurant first and then the kitchen. These were great days and gave me the opportunity to see how the industry ticks. I learnt a lot from those days both good and bad !! But I have to say I was itching to work only in the kitchen but it was a good insight into the catering world .
After completing college I moved away from Rochdale for a full time roll at one of Cheshire’s most talked about Hotel restaurants The Stanneylands Hotel. This was the school of hard knocks for me as I quickly realised that although excelling at college meant nothing in “The Real World”.
I loved every minute of the 18 hour days 6 days a week on minimum wage . Although difficult I feel that without this grounding I wouldn’t have achieved what I have today. After 18 months of hard graft I left Stanneylands and went with the Head chef to open a fine dining restaurant at Mere Golf and Country Club. The opportunity to work alongside Matthew Barrett was too good to turn down. I learnt so much from the ex-Ritz chef and working in a much slower paced role helped me develop a much better understanding of how to organise and run a kitchen. We were a very small team and teamwork was and still is the only way to go for me.
After 2 years at Mere I got the opportunity to go into The Alderley Edge Hotel as Junior Souschef. The Early days at the Edge were all about learning new styles of cuising which is invaluable in any role as a chef. I got the opportunity to grow and learn all aspects of every section which was inspiring . I was offered the opportunity at the age of 29 (2004) to take the role of head chef. For me this was when I really started to develop my own style of food.
After 9 years at the top winning Cheshire restaurant of the year , Chef of the Year and appearing on GBM amongst many highlights including cooking for many celebrities and famous people I decided to move on into development with Sousvidetools.
The main inspiration for this was to train and educate people . I always had a great passion for education but could never really see myself at a college . The job is super rewarding and I am proud to say we have become the leading light in sous-vide education in the UK . This is something I am very proud of . Food is my biggest passion and this is what keeps me interested the most . I love to travel and try out other countries cuisines. I am constantly inspired by ingredients and the pursuit of getting the best out of them without destroying their natural flavour .It is super important to me to continue to try and be at the forefront of the food scene this is what inspire me and the team to keep driving forward .
Technology is now widely used in the industry and I am super proud to say we have been a big part of spreading that message.
I am very lucky to be in the position I am and the drive to constantly improve our training and links to the next generation of young budding hospitality chefs.
TI feel that my experience over the last 25 years really enables me to get close and educate the “next generation” of chefs .
The industry which I love is really struggling to bring through new recruits and if I can help that process I will be immensely proud.
The food seen in the Uk has improved dramatically over the last ten years and I feel this will continue with the correct education. What happens next only fate will tell us.
Its young chef, Matt Eversman, seemed relatively untried, with a brief tenure at Saigon Sisters as the only executive chef position on his résumé. He's never even been to Southeast Asia, after all.
But we left the new Randolph St. restaurant as believers--in Eversman's ambition, skill and innate understanding of Asian flavors.
At Oon, octopus is part of a composition as vivacious as it is unexpected, joined by Mexican chorizo, smoked strawberry purée and wheat berries dressed with fish-sauce vinaigrette ($13). The meaty tentacles are cooked confit with pho spices (star anise, cinnamon, coriander), grilled, and glazed with the sweet sauce traditionally found on Japanese eel.
Green papaya salad ($8) begins with a nod to the Vietnamese tradition, then veers sharply, confidently away with ripe mango, jicama and crisped pancetta.
Starters were the stars of our meal, and the reason we'll return. Entrees of smoked tofu ($16) and duck-foie gras pho ($16) lacked the balance and refinement of the smaller compositions.
House-made udon (Photo: Kaitlyn McQuaid)
Order chewy hand-rolled udon noodles instead, laced with crab and chile-lime vinaigrette and finished with delicate yuzu-dashi broth ($14), or grilled prawns with scallion sauce, togarashi, candied kumquats and punchy lemon purée ($12).